Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: Which Anti-Aging Ingredient is Best for Your Skin?
To successfully achieve youthful-looking skin, bakuchiol and retinol are often held up as powerful active ingredients, meaning they’re proven to have a positive impact on the skin’s appearance. Retinol – a retinoid that’s available without a prescription – is renowned for its anti-ageing properties. Bakuchiol offers a plant-based option that promises similar benefits with potentially fewer adverse side effects.
But which one is right for you? If you’re worried about how your skin reacts to new ingredients, there’s lots to consider.
We’re diving into the science behind both ingredients to help you decide which is best for you: Comparing how well they work for different skin types, the safety of using retinol or bakuchiol while pregnant or breastfeeding, potential side effects, and how to add them to your skincare routine.
What is Retinol (Vitamin A)?
Retinol, which sits under the wider umbrella of retinoids, is a Vitamin A derivative. Retinoids are the gold-standard in anti-ageing skincare, with decades of scientific evidence to prove that they increase healthy cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, for younger-looking skin. Benefits of retinol include:
-Slowing the signs of ageing
-Reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and rough textured skin
-Fading the look of dark spots, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation
-Treating acne and preventing acne scars by reducing inflammation and pore congestion [1]
While most people’s skin can tolerate retinoids without an issue (especially over-the-counter retinol), some may experience short-term reactions at first as their skin gets used to faster cell turnover. This is most common in retinol users with sensitive skin.
Prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin are up to 20 times more effective than retinol products, and because of this strength, a dermatology expert will start you on a low dose and gradually increase it based on how your skin responds. They’ll also recommend a skincare routine with suitable ingredients to help you get the best results from this potent ingredient.
Can you Combine Retinol with Other Actives?
Retinoids can often be used with other active ingredients like niacinamide, but you should speak to a dermatology expert first if you are thinking of combining stronger actives, or if you have sensitive skin.
Retinoids increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it’s very important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF30 to protect your skin from UV damage.
There are a few different types of retinoids available, most commonly retinol, retinal (retinaldehyde), and tretinoin.
What is Bakuchiol?
Often marketed as a ‘natural alternative to retinol’, bakuchiol comes from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It’s been used for centuries in Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine for its healing properties and anti-inflammatory effects. Studies have shown that, like retinol, bakuchiol can help promote the production of collagen and visibly reduce signs of ageing, but with a gentler impact on skin. [2]
You’ll often find bakuchiol in skincare products like serums, creams or oils, and it is usually a gentler option for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It has anti-inflammatory properties, which help to soothe and calm the skin. It doesn’t increase sensitivity to sun exposure. [3] That said, you should still use sunscreen every day to protect your skin from UV damage.
Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: How they Work
Both retinol and bakuchiol are used in skincare products to treat photoageing, but how do they work? Here’s a breakdown of theiranti-ageing effects.
Retinol
-Firmer skin: Enhances collagen synthesis, improving skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles.
-Brightening: Accelerates exfoliation of dead skin cells, making way for new, healthy cells to come to the surface. This promotes a smoother, more radiant complexion.
-Clearer skin: Unclogs pores and reduces breakouts in acne-prone skin, making it an effective acne treatment.
-Reduces hyperpigmentation: Fades visible dark spots and age spots, and effective for evening out skin tone.
Bakuchiol
-Firmer skin: Stimulates collagen production, mimicking the effects of retinol in improving skin elasticity.
-Antioxidant effect: Neutralises free radicals, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage.
-Anti-inflammatory: Reduces inflammation, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
-Not photosensitive: Unlike retinol, bakuchiol doesn’t increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.
Pros and Cons of Using Retinol and Bakuchiol
Retinol
-Pros: Decades of scientific research proving its success in treating various skin concerns. Naturally speeds up healthy skin cell turnover, treats multiple skin conditions, and has long-term skin benefits.
– Cons: For some, introducing retinoids to the skin can cause sensitivity at first. All forms of retinoids are not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Retinoids may not be suitable for combining with other active ingredients—if in doubt, speak with your dermatology provider for expert advice.
Bakuchiol
-Pros: Gentler on the skin, suitable for sensitive skin types, and doesn’t increase sun sensitivity. Suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It’s also safe to use alongside other active ingredients with less risk of irritation compared to retinoids.
-Cons: While promising, the research on its effects is not as extensive as retinoids.
Which Ingredient is Right for Me?
For the most visible, fast-acting results in reducing the skin’s signs of ageing/aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and loss of elasticity, retinoids are the best ingredient available. But you might want to look at bakuchiol as a retinol alternative if:
-You have very sensitive skin,
-Prefer plant-based alternatives
-You are pregnant or breastfeeding
-You’ve had severe side effects to retinol in the past
Can Retinol and Bakuchiol Be Used Together?
While both ingredients are great options for improving skin texture and reducing signs of ageing, you should speak with a dermatology expert or seek medical advice before combining them if you have sensitive or reactive skin. because using both together may increase the risk of skin irritation.
If you do notice sensitivity from using retinoids, take a short break until your skin settles down. Then re-introduce it using the ‘sandwich method’, which provides extra support to your skin barrier. Essentially, this method involves applying a layer of gentle moisturiser before and after your retinoid. This acts as a buffer between the potent actives and your skin barrier.
Both retinol and bakuchiol can be powerful actives in fighting the visible signs of skin ageing. Retinoids remain the gold-standard treatment in the dermatology field, with plenty of research to back up their effects. But for those with very sensitive skin, those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, or who prefer plant-based skincare ingredients, bakuchiol could be a great alternative.
Find out what formulas are suitable for your individual skin type by visiting our website.
References:
1. Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology [Internet]. 2019;36(4):392–7. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/
2.Puyana C, Chandan N, Tsoukas M. Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2022 Oct 31. Available from: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.15420
3. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, Notay M, Trivedi M, Burney W, et al. Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology [Internet]. 2018 Sep 21;180(2):289–96. Available from: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/bjd.16918
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