What’s the Difference Between Retinol, Retinal, Retinoids, Tretinoin and Retinaldehyde?

Retinoids are considered the gold-standard ingredient for treating a range of concerns, from anti-ageing to chronic acne, (1) but there are so many variants to choose from: you might have heard of retinol, retinal, retinaldehyde, and tretinoin. With all these different clinical names in circulation and products boasting ingredients of varying strengths, it’s overwhelming to understand which might be right for your skin.
We’re here to simplify things for you — retinoids are powerful actives with a multitude of long-term skin benefits. But when used incorrectly, they can cause sensitivity, irritation, and even skin barrier damage, so it’s important to understand what you’re working with. (2)
In this blog post, we’ll break down all the information you need to know.

What Are Retinoids?

Retinoids is the collective name given to a group of ingredients that include tretinoin, retinol, retinaldehyde and more. They are all forms of Vitamin A and vary in potency, effectiveness, and how quickly they get to work on the skin. Retinoid products are used as dermatology treatments because they help speed up skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and reduce pigmentation. (1,3)
Retinoids convert into retinoic acid when they’re applied to the skin, which directly interacts with the skin cells to promote skin cell renewal. (4) The key difference between each type of retinoid is how quickly it converts into retinoic acid—the fewer steps for it to do so, the stronger the ingredient.

What Do Retinoids Do?

Retinoids are active ingredients that have been clinically proven to effectively treat skin conditions like:

– Visible signs of ageing, like the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines (5)
– Acne, inflammation, clogged pores, blemish-prone skin and breakouts (6)
– Uneven skin tone, dark spots, melasma and hyperpigmentation (3)
– Sun-damaged skin, enlarged pore size, skin roughness and uneven skin texture (5)
– Dullness

The Differences Between Retinol, Retinal, Retinaldehyde and Tretinoin

Retinol – The Over-The-Counter Retinoid

Retinol is one of the most widely available retinoids, because it can be bought over-the-counter without a prescription. It’s commonly found in serums, creams, and treatments for anti-ageing and acne-prone skin. It’s also often used to help with the long-term effects of sun damage.

– Retinol is inactive. To activate, it converts first into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid.
– Gentler than prescription retinoids, making it safer for first-timers or sensitive skin.
– It works more slowly than stronger retinoids, so it takes longer to notice results.

Retinal/Retinaldehyde — Retinol’s Stronger and Faster-Acting Sibling

Retinal and retinaldehyde are the same thing—retinal is just an abbreviated name. Retinal products like retinal serums are available without a prescription, and are closer to retinoic acid than retinol, meaning it converts more quickly on the skin and delivers faster results.

– Up to 11 times more potent than retinol
– Works faster than retinol
– Less risk of irritation than prescription retinoids, but potentially more irritating than retinol
– Available without a prescription

Tretinoin — The Gold Standard Retinoid

Also known as all-trans retinoic acid, tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid that works without needing a conversion step, meaning it’s the most powerful and fast-acting option. Like adapalene, tretinoin is an active form of retinoid. This type of retinoid should only be obtained with a personal prescription and under the supervision of a dermatology expert.

– Clinically proven for acne and anti-ageing (5)
– Works up to 20 times faster than retinol or retinal
– Short-term side effects include skin sensitivity and irritation
– Requires a prescription from a dermatology expert

Which Retinoid is Right for You?

The right retinoid for you depends on your skin type, experience, and goals. Only a dermatology expert can confirm which retinoid will be the best for your needs, but as a general rule of thumb:

– Retinol is best for beginners with mild ageing concerns who may experience sensitivity
– Retinal is best for more moderate ageing or acne concerns whose skin has reacted well to retinol
– Tretinoin can be used by people whose skin has adjusted well to retinoids, and who want to treat more serious skin concerns

How to Use Retinoids Without Irritation

When introducing any retinoid into your skincare routine, you should always start with the lowest concentration available and use the ingredient a couple of times a week at first to allow your skin time to adjust.

During this time, carefully monitor how your skin responds to the new ingredient. If you notice any irritation, stop using the product and wait for the symptoms to clear up. Because retinoids accelerate skin cell turnover, they can cause dryness, peeling, and sensitivity when first introduced.

Here are some tips for minimising irritation:

1. Start Slow & Build Up

Unless your personal dermatology provider recommends otherwise, begin using retinoids 2-3 times a week before increasing to nightly use. If your skin reacts, use it less often and moisturise well.

2. Use the Sandwich Method

Using a hydrating moisturiser before and after you apply your retinoid (known as the sandwich method) can help prevent irritation while still delivering results.

3. Protect Your Skin

Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so applying them in the evening is best, and using a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily is essential to prevent UV damage.

How to Protect Your Skin Barrier When Using Retinoids

Your skin barrier locks in moisture and acts as a shield against bacteria and environmental irritants. Supporting its hydration and resilience is essential for your overall skin health. Because retinoids increase cell turnover, they can sometimes have side effects for the skin barrier, leading to potential for irritation, dryness or sensitivity. Because of this, it’s important to take steps to protect the skin barrier while using retinoids.

– Use the Sandwich Method when introducing retinoids to your skin, or gradually increasing the concentration or frequency of the retinoids you’re using.
– Keep your skin well hydrated with moisturisers and serums that include hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
– Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so apply sunscreen daily with at least SPF30.

Who Shouldn’t Use Retinoids?

Most skin types can tolerate over-the-counter retinoids when introduced gradually, but if you have very sensitive or easily irritated skin, you might need to use low concentrations or avoid them altogether. Stronger, prescription retinoids should only be used under the guidance of a dermatology expert.

Retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. If you’re expecting, trying to conceive, or nursing, look for pregnancy-safe ingredients and remove retinoids from your routine.

Retinoids — retinol, retinal, and tretinoin — all boost collagen and promote cell turnover to reduce signs of ageing and acne, but should be introduced gradually into your skincare routine. Prescription grade retinoids will need oversight from a dermatology expert to minimise irritation, sensitivity, or in extreme cases, skin barrier damage. Retinol is the mildest version, which is available over-the-counter, while prescription-strength tretinoin is the strongest. Retinal sits between the two, offering higher potency than retinol without the need for a prescription.

Whichever retinoid journey you choose, the key to achieving your skincare goals is consistency. The best results come with long-term use, so stick with your routine and adjust it based on your skin’s needs.

Find out what formulas are suitable for your skin by visiting our website.

References:
1. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging. 2006 Dec;1(4):327–48.
2. Angga Cipta Narsa, Cecep Suhandi, Janifa Afidika, Salsabil Ghaliya, Elamin KM, Nasrul Wathoni. A Comprehensive Review of the Strategies to Reduce Retinoid‐Induced Skin Irritation in Topical Formulation. Dermatology Research and Practice. 2024 Jan 1;2024(1).
3. Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology [Internet]. 2019 Aug;36(4):392–7. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/
4. Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ, Wang X, Chen Y, Schneider LM, et al. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology [Internet]. 2015 Nov 18;15(1):49–57. Available from: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.12193
5. Publishing HH. Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? [Internet]. Harvard Health. 2022. Available from: https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/do-retinoids-really-reduce-wrinkles
6. Leyden J, Stein-Gold L, Weiss J. Why Topical Retinoids Are Mainstay of Therapy for Acne. Dermatology and Therapy [Internet]. 2017 Jun 5;7(3):293–304. Available from: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s13555-017-0185-2