Spring 2025 skincare trends, reviewed by a Derm

When it comes to trends, skincare moves fast. But do social media’s most viral ingredients, products and hacks really work? Are they safe and backed by science? We asked Dermatica’s Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Shendy Engelina, to share her professional expertise on the myths and misconceptions surrounding some of the biggest skincare trends this spring.

Myth #1: You can’t use LED masks if you’re also using retinoids

Dr Shendy says: “That is indeed a myth. Generally, you can use LED light therapy while using retinoids – including both prescription, and over the counter products. However, it’s important to introduce LED light gradually and use it at different times of the day to your retinoids. For example, you might use your LED mask in the morning then your tretinoin at night.

My advice? Monitor your skin closely. If you develop reactions like redness or irritation, you may need to stop both treatments temporarily as this will allow your skin to recover. If in doubt, always speak to your GP or our expert dermatology team here at Dermatica.”

Myth #2: Silicon patches can reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Dr Shendy says: “If your algorithm is anything like mine, you’ll have seen a lot of people on TikTok try these out. For the uninitiated, a wrinkle patch is an adhesive, usually made of silicone, designed to be worn overnight. It works by keeping facial muscles still and trapping moisture, temporarily reducing the appearance of wrinkles. People commonly apply these patches to areas like the forehead, around the eyes, mouth, neck and chest.
While silicone patches may leave your skin feeling instantly smoother, there is little evidence to suggest they provide lasting effects. The wrinkle-reducing results are primarily due to temporarily limiting facial movements, and these effects usually fade within a few hours. There are also other types of patches infused with ingredients like retinol, hyaluronic acid, or other hydrators, which may provide additional benefits – but these benefits come from the active ingredients themselves, not the patch. You could achieve similar results by incorporating those ingredients into your regular skincare routine.

Wrinkle patches are generally safe to use, but those with sensitive skin may experience redness or irritation due to the adhesive. If you’re looking for a temporary fix to reduce the appearance of wrinkles for a special event, they can be a helpful option. However, for long-term, lasting results, it’s better to rely on evidence-backed ingredients like retinoids, peptides, and Vitamin C.”

Myth #3: Nappy rash cream can be used to treat acne and inflammation

Dr Shendy says: “Most of the benefits from nappy rash cream come from two ingredients: zinc oxide and petrolatum. Zinc oxide has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, while petrolatum helps skin barrier function.

So this cream could, in theory, be useful for treating dry skin as it is a highly occlusive barrier. Simply put, it creates a barrier on top of the skin to prevent moisture loss. However, it may also have ingredients like fragrances that could cause irritation to the skin on your face.

Many people think that nappy creams could help with acne because of their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, but there’s no solid evidence for this. If anything, they could make it worse as nappy creams often have a thick texture that could clog pores. The cream is also so occlusive that if you apply other active ingredients first, they’ll be absorbed more intensely by your skin, potentially causing more irritation. Ultimately, you should always stick to using skincare that’s formulated for facial skin and has evidence to prove it actually works.”

If you’ve found a skincare trend you’d like an expert opinion on, drop us a DM on Instagram, TikTok or Facebook and we’ll aim to address it in our next mythbusting blog post. Or if you’re a Dermatica customer, you can contact your dermatology team any time for advice.

Myth #4: Electric Gua Sha can treat wrinkles

Dr Shendy says: “By now everyone’s heard of gua sha, an ancient Chinese healing technique that promotes lymphatic drainage and is said to improve skin appearance. But a new product has emerged, the electric gua sha – is it any good? Electric Gua Sha is a modernised version with built-in vibration settings, providing a massaging effect that supports lymphatic drainage and reduces puffiness. Some devices also feature microcurrent technology, which is believed to stimulate facial muscles, potentially leading to a firming effect. Many also include heat therapy, which enhances circulation, resulting in a more radiant complexion.

Essentially, it’s a nice addition to facial massage and its electric functionality makes it ideal for beginners who may not be familiar with traditional Gua Sha. However, it is not a replacement for proven anti-ageing treatments. Electric gua sha won’t offer permanent changes to lift the skin or improve wrinkles. So, if you’re looking for long-lasting results to improve fine lines, wrinkles, and skin radiance, evidence-backed ingredients like retinoids are a far better option.”

Interested in finding an evidence-backed solution to your skin concern? Visit our website here.