Ascorbic Acid: Transform Your Skin

Ascorbic acid

ah·skor·bik acid

A pure form of vitamin C that’s dermatologist-trusted to help shield skin from UV damage and improve pigmentation, fine lines and overall firmness.

Reasons to choose Dermatica

Your own personalised formula, created by dermatology experts with science-backed ingredients.

An optional Vitamin C 15%: Fresh Batch Ascorbic Acid treatment booster to brighten and protect your skin, and elevate the results of your formula.

Easy delivery straight to your door every 28 days.

Unlimited and ongoing free dermatology consultations.

£24 .99

Cutting-edge ingredients require cutting-edge research. We conduct systematic reviews to make sure we’re using ingredients with the highest level of clinical evidence from reputable research trials.

Double blinded RCT 5% topical ascorbic acid used for 6 months. Highly significant decrease in deep furrows observed.

Humbert et al. 2003 (Exp Derm)
Double blind half-face study. 10% topical ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate over 3 months. Significant improvement in wrinkling, roughness, laxity, sallowness.

Traikovich et al. 1999 (Arch Orolaryn)
Double blind, half-face study. 10% topical ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate over 3 months. Improved hydration, significantly reduced photoaging scores.

Fitzpatrick et al. 2002 (Derm Surg)
Split-face study of topical 23.8% L-ascorbic acid serum over 2 weeks. Reduced pigmentation, roughness with improvements in wrinkles.

Xu et al. 2012 (Drugs in Derm)
2 sided blinded, placebo controlled study of topical 5% ascorbic acid. Demonstrated wrinkle depth reduction and skin elasticity enhancement.

Mohammadi S et al. 2020 (J of Cosmet Derm)
RTC of 30 patients with solar lentigos using 10% Vit C and 2% phytic acid BD for 3 months. Demonstrated improved depigmentation compared to vehicle.

Ortonne et al. 2011. J Cosmet Dermatol
21 subjects received Vit C derivative (0.075% Palm-KVK-A) BD for 12 weeks for hyperpigmentation and skin ageing. Effective at reducing pigmentation.

Kim et al. 2017Arch Dermatol Res
Combined topical AA and TCA peel versus TCA peel alone in treating 30 women with bilateral epidermal melasma. Improvement in 87% using the combination therapy v. 67% TCA peel alone.

Soliman et al. 2007. J Cosmet Dermatol
Vit C iontophoresis vs. distilled water in 29 women with melasma over 12 weeks. Significant reduction in luminance value on the treated side compared to the control side.

Huh et al. 2003. Dermatology
35 patients with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation treated with iontophoresis and ascorbyl glucoside preparation over a 1- to 2-month period (+ mandelic/malic acid skin care regimen, broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunblock, and basic sun protection). 73% improvement in abnormal pigmentation, greater than 25% improvement in 32 patients, and greater than 50% improvement in 22 patients.

Taylor et al 2013. J Drug Dermatol
Clinical study examining the effect of a topical formulation containing 25% vitamin C and a chemical penetration enhancer reported a significant decrease in pigmentation caused by melasma after 16 weeks in 40 patients.

Hwang et al 2009 J Cut Med and Surg
The lightening effect was significant in 19 of 34 patients with chloasma or senile freckles and in 3 of 25 patients with normal skin. 10% Vit C derivative applied for 12 weeks.

Kameyama et al 1996 JAAD
20% TCA peels plus topical 5% ascorbic acid was found to be superior to TCA peeling alone in 30 women with epidermal melasma.

Kalla et al 200. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Lepro
Split face study Hydroquinone vs. 5% ascorbic acid in melasma in 16 patients over 16. Weeks. HQ led to 93% good and excellent results, compared with 62.5% on the ascorbic acid side. Side-effects were present in 68.7% (11/16) with hydroquinone vs. 6.2% (1/16) with ascorbic acid.

Espinal-Perez et al. 2004. Int J Dermatol
Combination with hydroquinone for reducing pigmentation is recommended due to “excellent safety profile”

Calendar et al. 2012. Am J Clinc Dermatol
5% Vit C derivative (SAP) in 50 subjects randomised in a double-blind controlled trial to receive active or vehicle over 12 weeks. Vit C demonstrated statistically significant improvement compared to vehicle in all parameters.

Woolery-Lloyd et al. 2010. J Cosmetic dermatology
1% Vit C derivative has a strong antimicrobial effect on P. acnes. In 20 subjects it prevented UVA-induced sebum oxidation up to 40%. In 60 subjects 5% SAP (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate) lotion applied over 12 weeks lead to “excellent efficacy” and was more efficacious than 5% benzoyl peroxide.

Klock et al. 2005. International Journal of Cosmetic Science
10 subjects applied 5% Vit C derivative (SAP) and 0.2% retinol. This reduced the inflammatory lesion by 20.14% and 48.82% within 4 and 8 weeks respectively.

Ruamrak C et al. 2009. International Journal of Cosmetic Science
30 women applied 5% Vit C OD who had facial erythema and telangectasia for 6 weeks. Effective at decreasing erythema and teleangectasia

Jaros et al. 2019 J Cosmet Dermatol
5.0% vitamin C daily was used in an observer-blinded and placebo-controlled study. 9/12 participants experienced improvement in their erythema

Carlin et al. 2001 Cosmetic Dermatol

Commonly asked questions about ascorbic acid

What does Ascorbic Acid do for your skin?

Ascorbic Acid is a potent antioxidant, and at 15% concentration it can have numerous benefits for your skin. This includes preventing photoageing, pigmentation, wrinkles, and loss of firmness from sun damage. When mixed with other antioxidants like vitamin E, it’s particularly great at enhancing sun protection from your SPF and evening out the skin tone.

It can also help improve the look of fine lines, repair and nourish the skin, as well as boost your skin’s overall antioxidant supply.

How long does Ascorbic Acid take to work?

With daily use, you can begin to see improvements in pigmentation, fine lines and overall firmness in as little as 6–8 weeks.

How do you store Ascorbic Acid properly?

Antioxidants like ascorbic acid lose their effectiveness when they’re exposed to oxygen and light. Be sure to choose products that are in non-transparent tubes or bottles with an airless pump so the ingredients remain stable for as long as possible. Store it in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.

Is Ascorbic Acid an exfoliant?

No. Unlike AHAs, topical retinoids or scrubs, ascorbic acid doesn’t exfoliate the skin or remove dead skin cells.

Which ingredients should you avoid mixing with ascorbic acid?

It’s not recommended to use exfoliants like AHAs, BHAs or physical scrubs with ascorbic acid at the same time. Using these ingredients together could increase your risk of irritation or damage your skin barrier.

Is it safe to use ascorbic acid with my personalised formula?

Yes. However, to prevent skin irritation, apply your Vitamin C product at a different time of the day to your personalised formula. Our dermatology experts recommend applying Vitamin C in the morning, and your personalised formula in the evening.

If you start to experience any irritation, take a break from Vitamin C for a few days and check in with your dermatology experts if you need to. We’re here to help and answer your questions whenever you need.

What’s the difference between Ascorbic Acid and Vitamin C skincare?

Ascorbic acid is a derivative of Vitamin C, and has more research behind its effects than any of its other forms. The different derivatives of Vitamin C in skincare have a wide range of benefits, and each one will give your skin different results.

Because of the extent to which it’s been studied, ascorbic acid is the gold standard, and most dermatologist-backed, of all the vitamin C derivatives.

What are the side effects of Ascorbic Acid?

Some people who use Ascorbic Acid may experience the following side effects:

Itching
Redness or inflammation (erythema)
Skin irritation
Tingling or burning sensation on application

As a Dermatica customer, if you experience any of these side effects, you can get in touch with our clinical team for help via your dashboard. A dermatology expert will be on hand to answer your questions whenever you need.

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Ascorbic acid

Ascorbic acid

Targets

Strength

Evidence

Key benefits

Antioxidant protection

Firming, lifting, anti-ageing

Unbeatable brightening

Understanding ascorbic acid

Reasons to choose Dermatica

Delving into the details

Show me the studies

Double blinded RCT 5% topical ascorbic acid used for 6 months. Highly significant decrease in deep furrows observed.

Double blind half-face study. 10% topical ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate over 3 months. Significant improvement in wrinkling, roughness, laxity, sallowness.

Double blind, half-face study. 10% topical ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate over 3 months. Improved hydration, significantly reduced photoaging scores.

Split-face study of topical 23.8% L-ascorbic acid serum over 2 weeks. Reduced pigmentation, roughness with improvements in wrinkles.

2 sided blinded, placebo controlled study of topical 5% ascorbic acid. Demonstrated wrinkle depth reduction and skin elasticity enhancement.

RTC of 30 patients with solar lentigos using 10% Vit C and 2% phytic acid BD for 3 months. Demonstrated improved depigmentation compared to vehicle.

21 subjects received Vit C derivative (0.075% Palm-KVK-A) BD for 12 weeks for hyperpigmentation and skin ageing. Effective at reducing pigmentation.

Combined topical AA and TCA peel versus TCA peel alone in treating 30 women with bilateral epidermal melasma. Improvement in 87% using the combination therapy v. 67% TCA peel alone.

Vit C iontophoresis vs. distilled water in 29 women with melasma over 12 weeks. Significant reduction in luminance value on the treated side compared to the control side.

Clinical study examining the effect of a topical formulation containing 25% vitamin C and a chemical penetration enhancer reported a significant decrease in pigmentation caused by melasma after 16 weeks in 40 patients.

The lightening effect was significant in 19 of 34 patients with chloasma or senile freckles and in 3 of 25 patients with normal skin. 10% Vit C derivative applied for 12 weeks.

20% TCA peels plus topical 5% ascorbic acid was found to be superior to TCA peeling alone in 30 women with epidermal melasma.

Split face study Hydroquinone vs. 5% ascorbic acid in melasma in 16 patients over 16. Weeks. HQ led to 93% good and excellent results, compared with 62.5% on the ascorbic acid side. Side-effects were present in 68.7% (11/16) with hydroquinone vs. 6.2% (1/16) with ascorbic acid.

Combination with hydroquinone for reducing pigmentation is recommended due to “excellent safety profile”

5% Vit C derivative (SAP) in 50 subjects randomised in a double-blind controlled trial to receive active or vehicle over 12 weeks. Vit C demonstrated statistically significant improvement compared to vehicle in all parameters.

1% Vit C derivative has a strong antimicrobial effect on P. acnes. In 20 subjects it prevented UVA-induced sebum oxidation up to 40%. In 60 subjects 5% SAP (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate) lotion applied over 12 weeks lead to “excellent efficacy” and was more efficacious than 5% benzoyl peroxide.

10 subjects applied 5% Vit C derivative (SAP) and 0.2% retinol. This reduced the inflammatory lesion by 20.14% and 48.82% within 4 and 8 weeks respectively.

30 women applied 5% Vit C OD who had facial erythema and telangectasia for 6 weeks. Effective at decreasing erythema and teleangectasia

5.0% vitamin C daily was used in an observer-blinded and placebo-controlled study. 9/12 participants experienced improvement in their erythema

Commonly asked questions about ascorbic acid

What does Ascorbic Acid do for your skin?

How long does Ascorbic Acid take to work?

How do you store Ascorbic Acid properly?

Is Ascorbic Acid an exfoliant?

Which ingredients should you avoid mixing with ascorbic acid?

Is it safe to use ascorbic acid with my personalised formula?

What’s the difference between Ascorbic Acid and Vitamin C skincare?

What are the side effects of Ascorbic Acid?

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