The amount we know about UV damage and excess sun exposure is miles ahead of where it used to be. This comes as a huge relief for dermatologists, as more people are familiar with sunscreen and staying out of the sun. But if you want to prevent sun damage, or you already have sun-damaged skin that you’re looking to treat – do any creams or products actually work?
In this post, we’ll explain which evidence-based products and methods help prevent UV damage. We’ll also cover the treatments and ingredients our dermatology team recommend to help repair existing sun damage on your skin.
What is Sun Damage?
Sun damage happens when UV radiation from sunlight touches skin that isn’t protected by shade or sunscreen. Sunlight doesn’t just burn your skin, it’s also the leading cause of premature skin ageing. The sun’s rays penetrate the skin very deeply, destroying collagen, and causing the formation of premature wrinkles.
Sun-exposed skin, when unprotected, can also lead to DNA changes at a cellular level and the formation of skin cancer. (1)
Creams To Prevent Sun Damaged Skin
Before we tackle how you treat and repair sun damage, it’s important you use the right techniques to prevent more skin damage and premature ageing from happening. Going without sunscreen increases your risk of UV damage, premature skin ageing and can make sun damage conditions worse. (2)
The first step is to get used to wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF30 every day, like our SPF50 Photodamage Defence Sunscreen. Broad-spectrum means that it shields your skin from both UVA and UVB rays.
Wearing sunscreen every day is especially important if you have active ingredients in your skincare routine, such as retinol, retinoids, hydroquinone, tranexamic acid and alpha or beta hydroxy acids (AHAs or BHAs). These actives can cause your skin to become more sensitive, especially when you first start using them.
Ingredients & Creams To Treat Sun Damaged Skin
There are powerful ingredients that can help restore and repair sun damaged skin. Some of the most effective ones can help you tackle hyperpigmentation, melasma, visible signs of ageing and uneven skin texture.
Retinoids (Tretinoin and Adapalene)
Retinoids are known as the gold standard treatment option for repairing sun damage. They work by increasing cell turnover, which helps turnover damaged skin cells and stimulate the growth of new ones.
– Tretinoin: A prescription-strength retinoid, tretinoin is particularly great at targeting visible signs of ageing like fine lines, rough skin texture, and uneven skin tone. The faster cell turnover also promotes collagen production, helping to cancel out sun damage below the surface of your skin. Its exfoliating properties also work to fade dark spots caused by sun damage. (3)
– Adapalene: This gentler retinoid will suit you better if you have sensitive skin, as it works in similar ways to tretinoin. Adapalene also helps reduce inflammation, smooth uneven skin texture, boost collagen and fade hyperpigmentation over time. We recommend getting personalised advice from a dermatology expert before you start using it to avoid side effects. (4)
– Tip: Introduce retinoids into your routine slowly, as they can be drying and irritating for some people. If you notice this at the start, try the sandwich method to reduce side effects. It’s always best to ask a dermatology expert for advice before using it.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a prescription ingredient that targets hyperpigmentation like sunspots. It’s considered one of the most effective treatments for fading hyperpigmentation that’s caused by sun exposure. Keep in mind that it’s only suitable to use for short periods, with breaks in between, and always under the guidance of a licensed dermatology expert. Overuse can make your skin irritated and damage your skin barrier. (5)
Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid is a newer but highly effective ingredient for targeting dark spots. It’s particularly great for melasma, age spots and dark spots caused by sun damage. Tranexamic acid works by interrupting your skin’s pigment production pathways, to help brighten uneven pigmentation and even out your overall skin tone.
Unlike hydroquinone, tranexamic acid is gentle and suitable for long-term use, even if you have sensitive skin. It’s often combined with other brightening agents like AHAs (e.g. glycolic acid or lactic acid), retinoids or azelaic acid. (6)
Read more about tranexamic acid.
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Vitamin C – especially in its pure form, ascorbic acid – is a powerful antioxidant that works in synergy with your sunscreen to protect you from sun damage. Plus, it helps repair existing damage.
By neutralising the free radicals caused by UV exposure, Vitamin C reduces oxidative stress on your skin. Combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid, this powerful trio also helps to brighten dark spots, even out skin tone, and boost collagen in the skin.
Although ascorbic acid is incredibly potent, it’s highly volatile and degrades easily when exposed to air and light. That’s why we created Vitamin C 15%: Fresh Batch Ascorbic Acid, a monthly booster with Vitamin C, Vitamin E and ferulic acid. This Vitamin C serum is made in small batches and bottled in airtight packaging – to retain its potency for longer. (7)
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a multi-tasking powerhouse found in our Clarifying Azelaic Acid Cream. Favoured among dermatologists for brightening, reducing hyperpigmentation, and treating acne, it’s an ideal option if you’re dealing with inflammation or dark spots. It’s also a fantastic option if you have sensitive skin or you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. (8)
Conclusion
Sunscreen, alongside topical (applied to the skin) treatments, can make a big improvement to different aspects of sun damage – from pigmentation issues to premature fine lines and rough skin texture.
Remember to introduce active ingredients into your routine gradually and always protect your skin with broad-spectrum sunscreen to prevent more damage. If a dermatology service is available to you, get personalised advice – so you know that the treatments will work for your skin type, and you’re getting the most out of them.
For more information on the conditions we treat, visit our website.
References
1. Rittie L, Fisher GJ. Natural and Sun-Induced Aging of Human Skin. Cold Spring Harbor Perspectives in Medicine. 2015 Jan 1;5(1):a015370–0.
2. Gabros S, Zito PM. Sunscreens And Photoprotection [Internet]. Nih.gov. StatPearls Publishing; 2019. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
3. Yoham AL, Casadesus D. Tretinoin [Internet]. PubMed. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2021. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK557478/
4. Tolaymat L, Zito PM. Adapalene [Internet]. PubMed. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2020. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK482509/
5. Schwartz C, Jan A, Zito PM. Hydroquinone [Internet]. PubMed. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK539693/
6. Gaćina K. The Use of Tranexamic Acid in Dermatology. Acta Clinica Croatica. 2023 Jan 1;
7. Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology [Internet]. 2017;10(7):14–7. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/
8. Sauer N, Małgorzata Oślizło, Brzostek M, Wolska J, Katarzyna Lubaszka, Katarzyna Karłowicz-Bodalska. The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action, preparations, and potential therapeutic applications. Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii [Internet]. 2023 Jan 1;40(6):716–24. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10809820/
Ash Sharma
Dr Ashwin Sharma is a medical doctor and writer with a particular interest in health technology, artificial intelligence and medical weight loss. He completed his training at the University of Leicester and Imperial College London, and has since been exploring the intersections of medicine, technology, and communication.
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