Heard of this active ingredient but not sure what it could do for your skin? Read on for your Dermatica guide to all things azelaic acid.
What Is Azelaic Acid?
As the name suggests, azelaic acid is an acid that’s naturally found in yeast. This multitasking ingredient exfoliates the skin and is used topically in skincare to target clogged pores, fade stubborn dark spots and treat the visible signs of ageing.
The Science Behind Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid (AZA) works by speeding up skin cell turnover – which causes the dead skin cells to shed making way for healthy new ones. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects and helps reduce excessive accumulation of keratin. (1)
Azelaic Acid for Different Skin Concerns
Because of its multiple skin benefits, topical azelaic acid (applied directly onto the skin) can be used by all skin types – even reactive and sensitive skin. (1) Here at Dermatica, we use it in personalised formulas designs to treat rosacea, melasma, acne, ageing, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) as well as pregnancy-safe acne scarring treatments.
Acne Treatment
Effective at unclogging pores, azelaic acid can be used to help treat mild acne vulgaris – one of the most common sebaceous gland disorders. It is particularly effective when used in combination with oral antibiotics to target acne-causing bacteria, and is suitable for maintenance therapy too. (2) Its anti-inflammatory effects also help reduce the appearance of existing blemishes and any related redness.
Hyperpigmentation And Dark Spots
The powerful antioxidants in azelaic acid help inhibit an enzyme which causes melanin. The pigment in our skin that when overproduced leads to hyperpigmentation, dark spots and melasma. (2)
Rosacea Treatment
This chronic inflammatory skin disorder usually manifests as facial redness, small bumps and persistent erythema (redness). AZA’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties help rosacea-prone skin by reducing inflammatory lesions and erythema, while also stopping the overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) – the skin’s natural regulators of inflammation.(3)
Uneven Skin Tone and Texture
Another benefit of speeding up cell turnover is that it refines the skin and unclogs pores – leaving a more even, smooth skin texture and tone.
Anti-Ageing Benefits
A powerful antioxidant, AZA is a scavenger of harmful free radicals – which cause damage to the skin cells and accelerate the signs of ageing. Using azelaic acid daily helps visibly improve dark spots and fine lines. (1)
Before and After: The Efficacy of Azelaic Acid
Research Studies and Clinical Trials
Available in strengths from 12% to 20%, it is considered a well tolerated treatment regardless of the concentration of azelaic acid – meaning it is suitable for sensitive skin. In controlled studies it was shown to be similarly effective at treating acne-prone skin as topical tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin and oral tetracycline. In another study, it also showed promise to be at least as effective as topical hydroquinone in treating patients with melasma, however more studies on this were recommended to be certain. (4) Here at Dermatica, our dermatology experts may recommend a personalised formula containing azelaic acid for an array of conditions including rosacea, melasma, acne, premature ageing or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or to use our over the counter AZA alongside your treatment to maximise its effectiveness.
Is azelaic acid the right skincare ingredient for you?
Because it works on multiple concerns at once, most skin types will benefit from using an azelaic acid product every day as part of your morning and evening skincare routine. You can find out what formulas or ingredients are suitable for your skin by visiting our website.
Azelaic Acid Before and After Photos
Dermatica customer Angela, 4 months
Treatment ingredients: Tretinoin, Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid
References
1. Sauer N, Małgorzata Oślizło, Brzostek M, Wolska J, Katarzyna Lubaszka, Katarzyna Karłowicz-Bodalska. The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action, preparations, and potential therapeutic applications. Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii [Internet]. 2023 Jan 1;40(6):716–24. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10809820/
2. van Zuuren EJ, Fedorowicz Z, Carter B, van der Linden MM, Charland L. Interventions for rosacea. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews [Internet]. 2015 Apr 28; Available from: https://www.cochrane.org/es/CD003262/SKIN_intervenciones-para-la-rosacea
3. Wardah A, Rahf A, Danah A, Moudhi S, Abdulaziz A, Alkanderi JJ, et al. Azelaic Acid Versus Hydroquinone for Managing Patients With Melasma: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials. ProQuest [Internet]. 2023;15(7). Available from: https://www.proquest.com/docview/2844014122/AC77C4C7ABA64A5APQ/1?accountid=174678
4. Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic Acid. Drugs. 1991 May;41(5):780–98.
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October 1, 2024
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