{"id":113513,"date":"2025-04-16T15:20:30","date_gmt":"2025-04-16T15:20:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.dermatica.co.uk\/skinlab\/?p=113513"},"modified":"2026-01-12T11:15:41","modified_gmt":"2026-01-12T11:15:41","slug":"mythbusting-a-derms-take-on-current-skincare-trends","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.dermatica.co.uk\/skinlab\/mythbusting-a-derms-take-on-current-skincare-trends\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter 2025 Skincare Trends, Reviewed by a Derm"},"content":{"rendered":"

Winter 2026 Skincare Trends, Reviewed by a Derm – SkinLab<\/strong><\/p>\n

Why does your skin erupt every winter despite following all the advice? Because most winter skincare trends aren\u2019t backed by science. These trends resurface each year predictably, but which ones are actually worth it? We asked Dermatica\u2019s Consultant Dermatologist, Dr. Shendy Engelina, to separate fact from fiction and spotlight the trends that work when temperatures fall. <\/p>\n

Myth #1: Seasonal Immune-Boosting Skincare<\/strong><\/p>\n

Winter means flu season, the annual invasion of uninvited pathogens that weaken your immune system. Cue the ginger shots, vitamin C mega doses and hurried flu jabs. But skin immunity, the first barrier pathogens encounter, is largely ignored.
\nWinter skin immunity might sound like marketing spin, but it’s based on solid science. Your skin functions as an active immune organ that blocks pathogens and initiates immune responses as needed. [1] Skin-associated lymphoid tissue (SALT) forms part of your skin\u2019s defence mechanism, recognising potential threats and coordinating inflammatory signals to protect against infection.<\/p>\n

In simple terms, keratinocytes, the cells that form your skin’s outer layer, act as biological alarm systems. When they detect danger, they release antimicrobial peptides and signalling molecules that alert your immune system. [2]
\nSun exposure, UV rays and pollution create oxidative stress and inflammation that compromise SALT’s effectiveness. Your skincare routine can either enhance or undermine this system. Aggressive exfoliators and over-cleansing strip away barrier lipids and beneficial microbes your skin needs to function, triggering unnecessary inflammatory immune responses.
\n\u201cImmunity skincare starts with an emphasis on getting the fundamentals right. That should be consistent gentle cleansing, moisturising and sunscreen to strengthen your skin barrier,\u201d says Dr Engelina. Adding,\u201dOur Caring Squalane Cream Cleanser<\/a> deeply hydrates and protects the barrier, while the Restoring Ceramide Skin Balm<\/a> strengthens the skin’s defences.\u201d <\/p>\n

Myth #2: Bank your Collagen for Skin Preservation<\/strong><\/p>\n

Collagen banking is one of TikTok\u2019s latest skincare trends and it\u2019s grounded in real biology. The concept is simple: preserve and stimulate collagen production, so you can maintain more of your natural collagen as you age. But what is collagen, exactly? It\u2019s the structural protein that makes up 30% of your body\u2019s total protein stores, acting as the foundational framework for skin, muscles, bones, tendons and ligaments. [3] It\u2019s what creates plump, firm skin that\u2019s often associated with a youthful glow. <\/p>\n

Collagen production gradually declines from your late twenties onwards. [4] The result is fine lines, wrinkles and a loss of skin firmness and elasticity. While winter doesn\u2019t directly break down collagen, cold temperatures and low humidity can weaken the skin barrier and increase dryness and irritation, making signs of ageing appear more visible. But here’s what matters, according to Dr. Engelina: “The majority of what we call ageing is driven by UV exposure and environmental assault, rather than time alone. That\u2019s encouraging, because it means much of what we see as premature ageing is actually preventable.\u201d<\/p>\n

This is where collagen banking comes in. Protect existing supplies while stimulating new production. Amino acids, peptides and antioxidants rebuild structural proteins. Vitamin C defends against free radical assault and microneedling creates controlled injury that kickstarts collagen synthesis. <\/p>\n

\u201cIf you’re serious about supporting your skin, hair and nails health and addressing visible ageing, Dermatica Collagen Complex<\/a> provides marine collagen peptides and antioxidants support,\u201d says Dr. Engelina.
\nNotice signs of pigmentation and dullness? Try Dermatica Vitamin C 15%: Fresh Batch Ascorbic Acid<\/a>, formulated to neutralise UV and free radical damage while delivering genuine brightening.<\/p>\n

Myth #3: Winter-Safe Actives for Skin Resilience <\/strong><\/p>\n

Why does your usual skincare routine leave skin dry and irritated in winter? Because winter attacks skin relentlessly. Dry indoor heat evaporates moisture while freezing outdoor air cracks your barrier. So, what to do? Combine your routine with targeted skincare that prevents or addresses damage as it happens to strengthen skin defences.
\nActives are powerful ingredients made to target specific skin concerns like pigmentation, congestion and uneven texture.If there\u2019s one active that\u2019s earned its reputation as an exceptional ingredient, it\u2019s retinoids. Retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, retinal or retinol) are vitamin A-derived molecules that bind to retinoic acid receptors in the skin, increasing cell turnover and accelerating renewal. They enhance skin\u2019s radiance, reduce the appearance of fine lines, improve skin texture, treat acne, stimulate collagen production and regulate oil production. [5]<\/p>\n

Many people tolerate retinoids well in warmer months, but once winter arrives, stinging, tightness and irritation can suddenly appear. Colder weather weakens the skin barrier and increases moisture loss, meaning the skincare routine that worked perfectly in summer may no longer be enough. Rather than stopping retinoids altogether, the key is to adjust your routine for the season. By increasing hydration and barrier support, retinoids can continue to deliver results without unnecessary dryness or irritation.<\/p>\n

Dr. Engelina recommends using retinoids year-round for lasting results, but suggests adjusting your routine seasonally: \u201cRetinoids can still work safely in winter, but it\u2019s important to monitor how your skin reacts. I recommend switching to a richer moisturiser and applying it more often to manage dryness during the colder months. Our Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturiser<\/a> is a great option.\u201d<\/p>\n

Find out what formulas are suitable for your skin by visiting our website.<\/a><\/p>\n

References:
\n1. Jillian M. Richmond, John E. Harris, Immunology of the Skin, Editor(s): Michael J.H. Ratcliffe, Encyclopedia of Immunobiology, Academic Press, 2016. Available from: https:\/\/academic.oup.com\/bjd\/article-abstract\/149\/s66\/2\/6635208?redirectedFrom=fulltext&login=false
\n2. Jillian M. Richmond, John E. Harris, Immunology of the Skin, Editor(s): Michael J.H. Ratcliffe, Encyclopedia of Immunobiology, Academic Press, 2016. Available from: https:\/\/academic.oup.com\/bjd\/article-abstract\/149\/s66\/2\/6635208?redirectedFrom=fulltext&login=false
\n3. Collagen. (n.d.). Cleveland Clinic. Available from: https:\/\/my.clevelandclinic.org\/health\/articles\/23089-collagen
\n4. Collagen banking: Beauty’s long game. (2024, August 14). GCI Magazine. https:\/\/www.gcimagazine.com\/brands-products\/skin-care\/article\/22917728\/collagen-banking-beautys-long-game
\n5. Motamedi, M., Chehade, A., Sanghera, R., & Grewal, P. (2022). A clinician’s guide to topical retinoids. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 26(1), 71\u201378. Available from: https:\/\/journals.sagepub.com\/doi\/pdf\/10.1177\/12034754211035091<\/p>\n

Autumn 2025 Skincare Trends, Reviewed by a Derm<\/strong><\/p>\n

When it comes to trends, skincare moves fast. But do social media\u2019s most viral ingredients, products and hacks really work? Are they safe and backed by science? We asked Dermatica\u2019s Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Shendy Engelina, to share her professional expertise on the myths and misconceptions surrounding some of the biggest skincare trends this autumn. <\/p>\n

Myth #1: \u201cBarrier repair 2.0\u201d<\/strong>
\nBarrier repair skincare isn\u2019t new, but it is timely for Autumn. As temperatures cool, our skin tends to get drier, more dehydrated and could become more sensitive as a result. Fortunately, barrier care isn\u2019t just for dry skin types any more, so this trend is suitable for any skin type at any age.
\n\u201cProtecting your barrier has evolved and you don\u2019t always need thick creams or balms to hydrate your skin any more,\u201d says dermatologist Shendy Engelina. \u201cSome formulations are lighter in texture than others, and still full of barrier-restoring peptides, ceramides,<\/a> niacinamide<\/a>, hyaluronic acid<\/a> and glycerin<\/a>,” she says, adding that “Products like our Daily Hydration 5HA+Cica Serum<\/a> and Soothing Centella Gel Moisturiser<\/a> are packed with these ingredients and won\u2019t leave your skin feeling greasy. So every skin type can benefit from proper skin barrier care.\u201d [1]
\nFor balanced to dry skin types, you may want to moisturise with our Nourishing Ceramide+Peptide Moisturiser<\/a> instead, as the slightly richer texture will help hydrate, plump and smooth areas prone to dryness, irritation or flakiness.
\nNotice sore, tight or flaky skin around delicate areas like your nose, lips or eyes? Applying a thin layer of our Restoring Ceramide Skin Balm <\/a>overnight will help give your skin the moisture and protection it needs to rebalance and recover. <\/p>\n

Myth #2: Vitamin C + Retinoids are back<\/strong><\/p>\n

This \u2018trend\u2019 gets a big tick from our team, because amidst the snail mucus and salmon sperm, dermatologist-approved staples like retinoids<\/a> (derived from Vitamin A) and Vitamin C<\/a> are back in the spotlight again.
\nWhile new products appear and disappear faster than you can blink, Vitamins A and C still have the largest amount of research and data supporting their effectiveness. \u201cVitamin C (especially potent forms like ascorbic acid<\/a>) helps brighten and protect your skin from pollution and environmental stressors. Retinoids like retinal<\/a> or tretinoin<\/a> help strengthen skin and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Both ingredients also encourage collagen production,\u201d says Dr. Engelina. [2, 3] <\/p>\n

Myth #3: Skincare for GLP-1 patients<\/strong><\/p>\n

Losing weight quickly can affect our skin\u2019s elasticity and collagen, especially as we get older, leading to sagging and hollowing. \u201cIt’s like removing stuffing from a cushion, but the size of the fabric cover stays the same,\u201d explains Dr. Engelina. <\/p>\n

Early studies suggest that some people using GLP-1 medications may notice their skin becoming looser, or their face seems less youthful and plump than before. In the media, this is often called \u2018Ozempic face.<\/a>\u2019 [4, 5] <\/p>\n

\u201cWhether or not you\u2019re using GLP-1 medications like Ozempic, Wegovy, or Mounjaro, any form of rapid weight loss can lead to fat loss in your face, which may also make collagen reduction and skin laxity more apparent, causing the skin to look less firm\u201d she continues. <\/p>\n

\u201cAnd while retinoids like tretinoin<\/a> or retinal<\/a> can help improve firmness by stimulating collagen production, they can\u2019t fully replace lost facial volume . For that, in-office treatments like radiofrequency microneedling or volumising fillers are more effective at tightening, restoring fullness and smoothing fine lines.\u201d
\nIn other words, you don\u2019t need a special skincare product or routine just because you\u2019re using a GLP-1. Instead, focus on supporting your skin barrier and collagen the same way you normally would..
\nFind out which skincare products or formulas are suitable for your skin via our website. <\/p>\n

References
\nHe X, Wan F, Su W, Xie W. Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients. Molecules [Internet]. 2023 Jan 1;28(14):5556. Available from: https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/1420-3049\/28\/14\/5556
\nBoo YC. Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies. Antioxidants. 2022 Aug 26;11(9):1663.
\nMilosheska D, Ro\u0161kar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Advances in Therapy [Internet]. 2022 Oct 11;39(12):5351\u201375. Available from: https:\/\/link.springer.com\/article\/10.1007\/s12325-022-02319-7
\nHuang L, Ma R, Lin T, Chaudhari S, Shotorbani PY, Yang L, et al. Glucagon-like peptide-1 receptor pathway inhibits extracellular matrix production by mesangial cells through store-operated Ca2+channel. Experimental Biology and Medicine [Internet]. 2019 Sep 11 [cited 2025 Nov 3];244(14):1193\u2013201. Available from: https:\/\/pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/articles\/PMC6802160\/
\nCatalfamo L, Saverio F, Rinaldis DD. \u201cOzempic Face\u201d: An Emerging Drug-Related Aesthetic Concern and Its Treatment with Endotissutal Bipolar Radiofrequency (RF)\u2014Our Experience. Journal of Clinical Medicine [Internet]. 2025 Jul 25;14(15):5269\u20139. Available from: https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2077-0383\/14\/15\/5269 <\/p>\n

Summer 2025 skincare trends, reviewed by a Derm <\/strong><\/p>\n

Dermatologist, Dr Shendy Engelina, to share her professional expertise on the myths and misconceptions surrounding some of the biggest skincare trends this summer. <\/p>\n

Myth #1: Salmon sperm is the secret to glass skin<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: \u201cSalmon sperm facials are also known as polynucleotide treatments. Polynucleotides are basically the building blocks of DNA. It is believed that they can help stimulate the production of new blood vessels, collagen and skin cells \u2013 which help give the skin a plumper, healthier and more hydrated appearance. In countries where the use of salmon sperm extract has been approved or is regulated, like here in the UK, it is injected into the skin. Where it hasn\u2019t been approved (like in the US), it is applied topically after microneedling treatments. <\/p>\n

Like with other skincare trends, more studies are needed to see if it actually works. When applied topically, it\u2019s not going to have the same effect as when injected, or when combined with other practices like microneedling. A 2024 review of polynucleotides found some significant improvements in skin elasticity and hydration, while others reported limited or no benefits. As always, we recommend proven skincare ingredients like retinoids which have robust clinical evidence that could deliver excellent results without the use of salmon sperm.\u201d<\/p>\n


\nMyth #2: The caveman routine is the ultimate reset for upset skin<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: \u201cAlong with many others, I\u2019ve been following this case on TikTok. In response to many years of skin picking, acne and scarring, a woman decided to forgo all skin care products \u2013 including face washing \u2013 something which she is calling her caveman routine. If you\u2019ve seen the \u2018after\u2019 pictures, you\u2019ll know that this TikToker\u2019s skin has not responded well to being neglected, with extremely dry, discoloured patches almost entirely covering her face. <\/p>\n

I\u2019ve met so many patients over the years who \u2013 after failed attempts to treat their skin \u2013 lost faith in products and wanted to try something radical. So I can really empathise with this. However, this course of action is not something myself or any other dermatologist would recommend. Without the correct skincare ingredients:
\n The original concerns will remain untreated
\n Leaving the skin without hydration, UV protection or the natural cell turnover that comes with cleansing, will only add to the discomfort and potential skin damage.<\/p>\n

As this woman specifically wanted to \u2018regenerate her skin\u2019 \u2013 the last thing she should do is stop cleansing it. Removing the dead skin cells through gentle cleansing and exfoliation is essential in order to make room for the healthy new skin underneath. Acne-prone skin like hers will often need extra help to encourage skin cell turnover (i.e. regeneration) because natural shedding is often sluggish or uneven. And active ingredients like retinoids have been proven for decades to deliver that end result.\u201d<\/p>\n

Myth #3: Matcha is a skincare superfood<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: \u201cMatcha is believed to be beneficial for the skin because it is naturally high in antioxidants. Antioxidants are important in skincare because they help protect the skin from free radical damage \u2013 caused by pollution, UV exposure, smoking and stress \u2013 which can lead to accelerated skin ageing. Interestingly many of the matcha products I\u2019ve come across have been cleansers and wash-off treatments, which wouldn\u2019t deliver the antioxidants into the skin in the same way a serum or mask might. <\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve found matcha skincare that feels good to use and has been tested on skin to assess its safety \u2013 then do it. However, if your primary goal is antioxidant protection, there are well-studied, evidence-backed ingredients that are proven to deliver results such as ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), ferulic acid, niacinamide, and Vitamin E. These have stronger clinical support for protecting the skin from oxidative stress and improving overall skin health.<\/p>\n

Spring 2025 skincare trends, reviewed by a Derm <\/strong><\/p>\n

When it comes to trends, skincare moves fast. But do social media\u2019s most viral ingredients, products and hacks really work? Are they safe and backed by science? We asked Dermatica\u2019s Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Shendy Engelina, to share her professional expertise on the myths and misconceptions surrounding some of the biggest skincare trends this spring. <\/p>\n

Myth #1: You can\u2019t use LED masks if you\u2019re also using retinoids<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: \u201cThat is indeed a myth. Generally, you can use LED light therapy while using retinoids \u2013 including both prescription, and over the counter products. However, it’s important to introduce LED light gradually and use it at different times of the day to your retinoids. For example, you might use your LED mask in the morning then your tretinoin at night. <\/p>\n

My advice? Monitor your skin closely. If you develop reactions like redness or irritation, you may need to stop both treatments temporarily as this will allow your skin to recover. If in doubt, always speak to your GP or our expert dermatology team here at Dermatica.\u201d<\/p>\n

Myth #2: Silicon patches can reduce fine lines and wrinkles <\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: \u201cIf your algorithm is anything like mine, you\u2019ll have seen a lot of people on TikTok try these out. For the uninitiated, a wrinkle patch is an adhesive, usually made of silicone, designed to be worn overnight. It works by keeping facial muscles still and trapping moisture, temporarily reducing the appearance of wrinkles. People commonly apply these patches to areas like the forehead, around the eyes, mouth, neck and chest.
\nWhile silicone patches may leave your skin feeling instantly smoother, there is little evidence to suggest they provide lasting effects. The wrinkle-reducing results are primarily due to temporarily limiting facial movements, and these effects usually fade within a few hours. There are also other types of patches infused with ingredients like retinol, hyaluronic acid, or other hydrators, which may provide additional benefits \u2013 but these benefits come from the active ingredients themselves, not the patch. You could achieve similar results by incorporating those ingredients into your regular skincare routine.<\/p>\n

Wrinkle patches are generally safe to use, but those with sensitive skin may experience redness or irritation due to the adhesive. If you\u2019re looking for a temporary fix to reduce the appearance of wrinkles for a special event, they can be a helpful option. However, for long-term, lasting results, it\u2019s better to rely on evidence-backed ingredients like retinoids, peptides, and Vitamin C.\u201d<\/p>\n

Myth #3: Nappy rash cream can be used to treat acne and inflammation<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: \u201cMost of the benefits from nappy rash cream come from two ingredients: zinc oxide and petrolatum. Zinc oxide has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, while petrolatum helps skin barrier function. <\/p>\n

So this cream could, in theory, be useful for treating dry skin as it is a highly occlusive barrier. Simply put, it creates a barrier on top of the skin to prevent moisture loss. However, it may also have ingredients like fragrances that could cause irritation to the skin on your face. <\/p>\n

Many people think that nappy creams could help with acne because of their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, but there\u2019s no solid evidence for this. If anything, they could make it worse as nappy creams often have a thick texture that could clog pores. The cream is also so occlusive that if you apply other active ingredients first, they\u2019ll be absorbed more intensely by your skin, potentially causing more irritation. Ultimately, you should always stick to using skincare that\u2019s formulated for facial skin and has evidence to prove it actually works.\u201d<\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve found a skincare trend you\u2019d like an expert opinion on, drop us a DM on Instagram, TikTok or Facebook and we\u2019ll aim to address it in our next mythbusting blog post. Or if you\u2019re a Dermatica customer, you can contact your dermatology team any time for advice. <\/p>\n

Myth #4: Electric Gua Sha can treat wrinkles<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr Shendy says: “By now everyone\u2019s heard of gua sha, an ancient Chinese healing technique that promotes lymphatic drainage and is said to improve skin appearance. But a new product has emerged, the electric gua sha – is it any good? Electric Gua Sha is a modernised version with built-in vibration settings, providing a massaging effect that supports lymphatic drainage and reduces puffiness. Some devices also feature microcurrent technology, which is believed to stimulate facial muscles, potentially leading to a firming effect. Many also include heat therapy, which enhances circulation, resulting in a more radiant complexion.<\/p>\n

Essentially, it\u2019s a nice addition to facial massage and its electric functionality makes it ideal for beginners who may not be familiar with traditional Gua Sha. However, it is not a replacement for proven anti-ageing treatments. Electric gua sha won\u2019t offer permanent changes to lift the skin or improve wrinkles. So, if you\u2019re looking for long-lasting results to improve fine lines, wrinkles, and skin radiance, evidence-backed ingredients like retinoids are a far better option.”<\/p>\n

Interested in finding an evidence-backed solution to your skin concern? Visit our website here.<\/a> <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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